Topic: Shapeway Miniature Model.

[FoaS_XC]

I discussed miniatures with Kreeargh. I found a company I think atolm had referred me to earlier. Shapeways. Basically you upload a 3d Mesh and you can have them send you a physical model of it. Now, there's a specific way you have to build the model (unified/watertight, manifold). I'm building this to see how much detail the miniature will retain. I will adjust if it needs it and go from there. Basically, I hope to make a nice sized fleet :-).

Here's the High-res model that I've made so far - continued from that low-poly thread but brought into much higher res.


I'm hoping that I build this in a certain way, where I can kitbash before unification (and swap out window sizes if need be, etc).

[Norsehound]

Interesting site. If only I had enough income, then I'd seriously pursue this as a potential way of making miniatures prototypes for board games I make

Though... how would shapeways handle models that exist under copywright and trademark? The Enterprise IS paramount property after all...

Then again, it seems someone's already uploaded a bird-of-prey derivative under another name, and a TOS Constellation under the name Earth Stellar Observer.

Edit: There's even a TOS Miranda up in the gallery!

Edited by FoaS to fix hyperlinks.

[Klingon Fanatic]

Interesting site. If only I had enough income, then I'd seriously pursue this as a potential way of making miniatures prototypes for board games I make

Though... how would shapeways handle models that exist under copywright and trademark? The Enterprise IS paramount property after all...

Then again, it seems someone's already uploaded a bird-of-prey derivative under another name, and a TOS Constellation under the name Earth Stellar Observer.

Edit: There's even a TOS Miranda up in the gallery!

I can't get to see the pictures there, I get an Intranet error message...

[Norsehound]

Interesting site. If only I had enough income, then I'd seriously pursue this as a potential way of making miniatures prototypes for board games I make

Though... how would shapeways handle models that exist under copywright and trademark? The Enterprise IS paramount property after all...

Then again, it seems someone's already uploaded a bird-of-prey derivative under another name, and a TOS Constellation under the name Earth Stellar Observer.

Edit: There's even a TOS Miranda up in the gallery!

I can't get to see the pictures there, I get an Intranet error message...

Huh, strange. In any event you can find them in the 'miniatures' gallery where quite a few of them are for sale. I'd say there's a fair amount of klingon ships in there as well... at least one example is blatantly called a Klingon ship (a B10), though it isn't for sale.

[FoaS_XC]

There's really not much to it. All the pieces need to be one solid watertight piece (a single element). There can't be any open edges. Usually that means you can just boolean everything together. This is one of the reasons I actually use 3ds Max 9 as opposed to 4. 9 has a third party app installed by default called ProBoolean. It's a lot cleaner and more reliable than the one that comes in stock max.

Windows are done the exact same way that I showed how to do the deflector cut outs in that video tutorial.
Grid lines in the saucer is done by making loops and rings in the saucer where the grid lines lay, chamfering all those lines, by a small amount, then extruding the new faces down slightly.

[Roychipoqua_Mace]

What materials were you looking at? I was amazed by all the materials that they offer.

[FoaS_XC]

Either the White, Strong & Flexible or the White Detail. I'm leaning towards the detail. I want to keep as much of the gridline and window details as I can. If it turns out that the windows and grid details won't keep that actually makes my modeling work easier and my painting work harder. We shall see.

[Roychipoqua_Mace]

Either the White, Strong & Flexible or the White Detail. I'm leaning towards the detail. I want to keep as much of the gridline and window details as I can. If it turns out that the windows and grid details won't keep that actually makes my modeling work easier and my painting work harder. We shall see.

That sounds like a good idea for a good cost/quality balance. I originally drooled over the stainless steel but it is pretty pricey.

[FoaS_XC]

Actually, the transparent detail is slightly cheaper.

I found a problem with my model, though. It looks like if I were to use the scale I want to the details I've made might be too small. I will have to continue to play.4

EDIT:
Strike my last. I had scaled it wrong to do my measurements.
I'm thinking of using the SFB scale - 1:3788
That means the 305m connie will be a mere 8cm long. The problem with this is that that huge ships, like the Yamato will end up being something like 21 cm which is a bit much. Thusly, I'm thinking that I should "Re-Normalize" scales, ie: the larger a ship is, the smaller scale I will use, the smaller ships will use larger scales.

[intermech]

I can't wait till every one just has a 3D printer. Just my luck, it will happen after I have lost interest (like Armada II true MVAM, and Armada milkshape import, etc. . . )

Like FW, I collected the Micromachine Trek sets, but hated normalized scale. But now I understand why they did it that way.

Edit: Instead of normalized scale, could you just make it in separate parts and then glue it together when it comes in the mail? You could do a lot of kit bashing like that too.

[FoaS_XC]

That actually crossed my mind. Including the idea of doing something like swapping out bridge modules and the like (the difference between a Connie CA and a Connie CC).

[marstone]

I can't wait till every one just has a 3D printer. Just my luck, it will happen after I have lost interest (like Armada II true MVAM, and Armada milkshape import, etc. . . )

Like FW, I collected the Micromachine Trek sets, but hated normalized scale. But now I understand why they did it that way.

Edit: Instead of normalized scale, could you just make it in separate parts and then glue it together when it comes in the mail? You could do a lot of kit bashing like that too.

Do a search for "open source 3d printer"  They have a couple out there.  Not really big or the best but they aren't the most expensive either.

[FoaS_XC]

The open source ones don't have the level of detail that a proper one would :-/

[marstone]

true, true.  The laser ones are much better.  But if you control what is coming out, a dremil tool can be a nice finisher.

[Kreeargh]

That actually crossed my mind. Including the idea of doing something like swapping out bridge modules and the like (the difference between a Connie CA and a Connie CC).

Dude dont forget the Klink bridge swap out , as a personal request if the public dont care. I want to see a Kink captured / refit version on my desk  .

[FoaS_XC]

So

Here are my problems. As I'm going over this model and making some measurements. It turns out you really need to distort the proportions (primarily the thickness of the struts and neck) to make the model work at 1:3788.

Were I to go ahead with the renormalized scale it would take me forever. I would have to cut and recut gridlines and windows and all sorts of details each time I want to make a new model. I couldn't kitbash at all. There are two solutions: One: keep a constant 1:3788 scale going. Two: get rid of most details in the model (no grid lines, no windows, etc).

[Kreeargh]

So

Here are my problems. As I'm going over this model and making some measurements. It turns out you really need to distort the proportions (primarily the thickness of the struts and neck) to make the model work at 1:3788.

Were I to go ahead with the renormalized scale it would take me forever. I would have to cut and recut gridlines and windows and all sorts of details each time I want to make a new model. I couldn't kitbash at all. There are two solutions: One: keep a constant 1:3788 scale going. Two: get rid of most details in the model (no grid lines, no windows, etc).

For cheep models make a low end version keep it simple yet strong so kids can play with it without real easy breakage, the model can be painted by end user if wanted.  The goal is cheep creation. Detail adds to the price which most wont pay for.  Most models are not that accurate anyway i think make it playable for kids and adults will respect that more than accuracy  .

[FoaS_XC]

Well, yes and no. Detail won't add too much in the way of cost. Cost is done purely by Volume of the object (thus cut-in details actually save you money).
The reason why Gridlines are so tempting is so that I can dry-brush and get some nice grungy effects if I so desire.
Example:

[Kreeargh]

Well, yes and no. Detail won't add too much in the way of cost. Cost is done purely by Volume of the object (thus cut-in details actually save you money).
The reason why Gridlines are so tempting is so that I can dry-brush and get some nice grungy effects if I so desire.
Example:

So its now changed from time to volume huh  More cut out of the "block" the cheeper? If so cool i need to get back to my tos Galactia!

[FoaS_XC]

That's the way this company does it. They do the layered printing method it seems, so the cost increases with volume as more material is needed to make it.

[Kreeargh]

Oh ok layerd not cnc machined i get it now