Topic: Resin models question

[FPF-Tobin Dax]

From what little I have read, resin models appear to be fragile. Can they stand up to being drilled? I've been looking at federation model's website and most of the kits say they are resin. Regula space lab, the st 5 galileo and work bee and cargo pods look nice.

[marstone]

The resin models I have worked with have all been fairly derable.  You should be able to drill and trim with no problem from my experience.  (have only done a few, mostly larger items). 

Depending on the resin used for the model (resin is used to make dentures they take a beating)

[Fallen_Warrior]

.

[Panzergranate]

I've a huge collection of 1:76 Scale pre-WW2 and WW2 Soviet tanks in Resin. It can be broken if dropped but is very tough and durable for wargaming purposes.

Some of the larger 1:76 Scale models, such as the T35 five turreted landbattleship and old 1931 three turreted T28 medium tank are quite heavy.

I had no problem drilling them as I used a modelling drill from Xacto, which drills at a higher speed than a DIY drill. One shouldn't be using a DIY cordless drill for modelling purposes anyway as they are way too slow and bulky.

I use industrial grade super glue thermo setting gel by Flash (Canada), which sticks both Resin and Whitemetal rock hard, unlike epoxy and other adesives. It is otherwise slow curing, unless a source of heat (hot air gun) is applied to it.

Don't use a DIY cordless drill for drilling any models, especially Resin ones, unless you want a disaster to occur. Use a high speed Xacto or Dremmel modelling drill.

[Fallen_Warrior]

.

[Panzergranate]

I've played at games workshop with my son a few times in the past.

The rules were pretty simple and vague in the past. They've now made the rules even more simple for today's mentally deficient kids.

I do find Warhammer 40,000 pretty boring to play as it is too balanced and real warfare is about inbalance. Nobody attacks unless things are weighted in their favour, do they.

The normal Warhammer does allow for more tactics. I took a copule of units of cavalry around the edge of the table, turned in and attacked the Orc's big monster thingee (can't remember what it was but I managed to kill it!!) Anyhow, it must have been important to the Orcs as they started pulling units back from the front battle line to rescue it. This lost them the battle as our front battle line units out numbered them from that point. Yep, I did the classic cavalry sweep tactic. Many years of playing ACW, ECW, HYW, NW, etc. comes in handy.

As for Battle Fleet Gothic, it's the same as a galleon wargame except set in space and different weapons. Any galleon naval tactic will work in a game. It is extremely primitive compared to SFB and doesn't require a lot of brain power to play. The ships are extremly primitive and poor in armaments compared to SFB or FASA ships.

Basically, a Klingon D7K would have no problems taking out any BFG race's fleet single handed. Actually, make that an F5K!!

I use super glue gel by Flash (the yellow bottle) which sticks metal to resin to plastic. I've stuck bolt heads onto snapped off bolts on motorcycles with this stuff. Yep, its that good!!

The resin Soviet Tank models I use are by Red Star Models (UK) and includes everything from the MS1 to modern T80. I occasionally use two T35 Land Battleships in 1941 games. At wargames conventions they draw a lot of attention as any five turreted tank would do. They are pretty useless but do look impressive on the gaming table.

I use a routing bit to remove burrs and flashing on resin models.

[Storvick_XC]

I have a few of the kits from Federation models that I am working on. As soon as I get the camrea working again I'll take some photos of them. The Starcraft models are in scale to the AMT Enterprise-D model.