Topic: Car Problem (Read 5638 times)

Commander Maxillius · « **on:** February 17, 2007, 06:00:12 pm »

My STS has decided I need more music in my life: in the form of a loud grinding squeak under the hood.

On the upside, I know what it is: the A/C compressor clutch.

The downside is that it's a pain in the arse to get to and whatever's causing the clutch to not engage (namely the A/C compressor) may be wrong too. The clutch coil is cheap, $80, but the A/C compressor isn't: $670.

I can afford the parts, even if it's the compressor, but I can't afford to have a professional install them if it is. Also, the engine computer didn't like it when I tried to just not use the A/C compressor by pulling that fuse so now my Service Engine Soon light is on too.

I miss my Echo.

KBF MalaK · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2007, 06:11:40 pm »

Thats strange the CEC light came on by pulling the climate ctrl fuse, but put it back in and unplug the compressor.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2007, 06:18:58 pm »

But that would require getting dirty

Perhaps being a cheap bastage makes up for it

Will try and report back, but the light's not going to go off immediately whtever happens.

Just plain old Punisher · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2007, 06:50:59 pm »

Put key in car, turn car on, make car go.

Apparently that's all I know about cars.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2007, 07:08:16 pm »

So long as it moves I'm good, but if there's other stuff like AC, radio, etc I want that to work too, and without obnoxious noises and smells.

I couldn't find what I'm supposed to unplug but I took a spare belt that was laying around and turned the offending part a couple turns and now it doesn't make the god-awful noise anymore, just a squeak. A loud, unrelenting squeak, but no growl or grumble.

What am I supposed to unplug and where is it? I don't really need the a/c anyway

Capt. Mike · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2007, 11:08:35 pm »

Well, since it has warmed up to 24 degrees F here, it is hard to sympathize..however..file your taxes, if you get $ back, fix it or replace the car..and to be honest, I lived in Georgia 5 years without airconditioning in the car..that was a luxory, not a necessity

Mike

KBF MalaK · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2007, 09:40:51 am »

Quote from: Commander Maxillius on February 17, 2007, 07:08:16 pm

So long as it moves I'm good, but if there's other stuff like AC, radio, etc I want that to work too, and without obnoxious noises and smells.

I couldn't find what I'm supposed to unplug but I took a spare belt that was laying around and turned the offending part a couple turns and now it doesn't make the god-awful noise anymore, just a squeak. A loud, unrelenting squeak, but no growl or grumble.

What am I supposed to unplug and where is it? I don't really need the a/c anyway

The compressor runs anytime the climate control need to dry the cabin air, so it runs when A/C is on as well as in defrost mode. There should be a connector on the clutch assm itself, or if you want to stay clean you can unplug one of the refrigerant pressure switches- look for a large silver or black bottle near the firewall and screwed into the bottle (or in the A/C line close by) is a small switch, simply unplug it and that should keep the compressor from cycling on.

Those northstars are a bear to work on as they pack so much motor into a small space so there's not much room left to snake a hand in to disconnect the clutch, take it to a mechanic and have him disconnect it for you.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2007, 04:43:43 pm »

Oh, it wasn't the clutch. It was the alternator. I know this because I went out last night and on my return voyage it failed a half mile from where I parked. I was 35 miles from home, but I made it. It drained the battery entirely though since the little red battery light was on from the start, and later about 4 miles from home the abs and traction control lights kicked on since the snow made me lose grip which caused them to activate, then those systems lost adequate power to function. As I pulled in the driveway the steering felt heavier so I'm glad I wasn't further away than I was. Apparently I have electric power steering.

Alternators are only about $300 so I should be good.

Dash Jones · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2007, 05:30:55 pm »

$300???

What do you have, some foreign cr@Pola? You must have an Asian car. I can get an alternator cheaper than that for a US (and many european) vehicles.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2007, 05:45:30 pm »

It's a 1997 Cadillac Seville STS

Don Karnage · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2007, 08:20:57 pm »

a profetioanl cost a lot BUT if there a problem you can go see them and get it fix, if you do it your self its cheaper but you need to know about mecanics, for your alternator you can check for a rebuild, or a use one from the scrap yard (or find another cars like you have and remove it from the other car

Midnight Tech · « **Reply #11 on:** February 18, 2007, 11:11:25 pm »

Maxillius, try to get a new unit for your car if at all possible. We sell a new unit by Cardone where I work that carries a limited lifetime warranty as opposed to a reman with a year's warranty. Yes, you'll pay more for that new unit, but if you plan on keeping that car any length of time, you'll come out ahead.
BTW, have the parts store test the battery with an electronic tester (Midtronics I think) to make sure you didn't deal it a death blow with that deeeep discharge and perhaps get them to recharge it as well so as to not kill off the new alternator.

Dash Jones · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2007, 05:23:33 am »

Yeah, I was looking at the alternators for the Cadillac Seville STS 1997 and it looked like they were priced between 130 to 187 USD overall...but that was a quick look up online so. 300 USD seems a little expensive, I just replaced the alternator a few months ago in one of the vehicles I was driving and I payed around 150 tops, which is why 300 sounded a little expensive.

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #13 on:** February 19, 2007, 06:08:15 pm »

Dash, I am going to guess that he is looking at the GM/Delco part which is much more expensive than a re-manufactured unit. There was a time when re-manufactured auto parts were just as good for half the price. However, with the drastic decline of the quality of those re-manufactured units buying new is the best route unless you truly cannot afford new.

Electric Eye · « **Reply #14 on:** February 19, 2007, 07:10:26 pm »

Get a reman alternator with lifetime warranty. Of course you have to do the labor but it's so simple, and failing that there are Hayne's manuals with photos and instructions.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=11&searchfor=Alternator&ptset=A

Don't know where you live or what year it is, but I just blew the pants off dealership and reman shops in your area.

http://www.haynes.com/

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #15 on:** February 19, 2007, 07:32:54 pm »

Well, it's at the shop now, and it's costing me $355, parts and labor. They're putting in a new Delco alternator: $200

Thanks for all the advice

I *really* hope I didn't kill the battery, but those are cheap. As I pulled into the shop, the display said "low battery volts", then everything inside shut off. I also discovered the transmission is electric too. Methinks the battery's toast.

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #16 on:** February 19, 2007, 08:43:12 pm »

That isn't bad. It cost me just under $300 for a Delco on my 1990 Bonneville but I would guess that mine is easier to work on. You may luck out on the battery as I have taken them down to nothing trying to start cars at -25 and they still lasted till the 60 month guarantee expired.

Dash Jones · « **Reply #17 on:** February 20, 2007, 09:32:15 am »

I have had the opposite, where a battery lasted 12 months. Of course some of that time I was not anywhere close to the vehicle and it was just sitting in the sun, roasting, and in the southern area of the US, that isn't good I found out. The battery died, from what my uncle told me it was probable that the heat burst the cells or something. He got it replaced really easily though.

Electric Eye · « **Reply #18 on:** February 20, 2007, 01:52:14 pm »

http://www.carcare.org/Articles/battery_hot_weather.shtml

Water.... Must have... WATER! Distilled water that is.

Just because the batteries have caps on top doesn't mean that gas crap do not leak.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2007, 02:44:34 pm »

Battery's fine, and the alternator is silent as far as I can tell

F.Y.I. When you're only on battery power and your battery volts low message appears on the DIC, you have 30 seconds till everything electronic stops working.

Including the transmission! Soooo glad everything works now!

Electric Eye · « **Reply #20 on:** February 21, 2007, 05:34:13 pm »

http://youtube.com/watch?v=auszi9bUr3o

Max has the STS up and running, everyone look out!

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #21 on:** February 22, 2007, 06:19:50 am »

Quote from: Brush Wolf on February 19, 2007, 08:43:12 pm

That isn't bad. It cost me just under $300 for a Delco on my 1990 Bonneville but I would guess that mine is easier to work on. You may luck out on the battery as I have taken them down to nothing trying to start cars at -25 and they still lasted till the 60 month guarantee expired.

Yeah, your Bonnie doesn't have a V8 crammed into the space your V6 sits. Plus I have a full Liter advantage over your car too.

That's the biggest advantage of the lead-acid battery: you can drain them to nothing and they'll still come back to a full charge

KBF MalaK · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2007, 11:54:30 am »

Glad to hear all is good, but I'd consider a battery anyway. Car batteries weren't meant to be 'deep cycled' and if it froze when it was dead it's definitely toast. If the new alternator needs to be replaced under warranty they may void it because the battery was 'deep cycled' and may have fried the alternator. It's your call but if you've driven alot with the charge light on or had more than a half dozen jumps you really need to replace the battery (especially on your car).

IAF Lyrkiller · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2007, 01:51:00 pm »

I have a Nissan Altima and yet to have done any major repairs on it. Its a '98.

My car is nearly 10 years old w/ 77000+ miles on it.

dragoon · « **Reply #24 on:** February 25, 2007, 05:16:17 pm »

I'm using a 1991 Nissan primera, that i only paid £100 for.
So far I've replaced the radiator, alternator belt, power sterring belt, one of the CV joints, and all the brakes... and I've had it a year. It's got just over 80,000 miles on the clock.

I've had to do a fair bit of work, but then for what i paid, it's great... sadly, my shock absorber and the spring on the passenger side went this week, and I have to wait until tomorrow to price the parts.... And I'm on the lower end of my student loans for this semester..... And trying to write my dissertation...

It had to go wrong at the exact time i needed to be on the road!!!

Cars, I love them, but they just love to give you grief at the wrong time.

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2007, 06:53:50 pm »

Quote from: dragoon on February 25, 2007, 05:16:17 pm

I'm using a 1991 Nissan primera, that i only paid £100 for.
So far I've replaced the radiator, alternator belt, power sterring belt, one of the CV joints, and all the brakes... and I've had it a year. It's got just over 80,000 miles on the clock.

I've had to do a fair bit of work, but then for what i paid, it's great... sadly, my shock absorber and the spring on the passenger side went this week, and I have to wait until tomorrow to price the parts.... And I'm on the lower end of my student loans for this semester..... And trying to write my dissertation...

It had to go wrong at the exact time i needed to be on the road!!!

Cars, I love them, but they just love to give you grief at the wrong time.

The belts, brakes, shocks, and even the CV joints are wear and tear parts. So I would say you got one heck of a deal there.

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #26 on:** March 01, 2007, 11:11:37 am »

Quote from: KBF K MalaK on February 25, 2007, 11:54:30 am

Glad to hear all is good, but I'd consider a battery anyway. Car batteries weren't meant to be 'deep cycled' and if it froze when it was dead it's definitely toast. If the new alternator needs to be replaced under warranty they may void it because the battery was 'deep cycled' and may have fried the alternator. It's your call but if you've driven alot with the charge light on or had more than a half dozen jumps you really need to replace the battery (especially on your car).

I only drove it like that home and to the shop. Bu then I have no idea how old the battery is since the car it's in sat on the car lot a year before I bought it.

dragoon · « **Reply #27 on:** March 02, 2007, 06:37:10 am »

Quote from: Brush Wolf on February 25, 2007, 06:53:50 pm

Quote from: dragoon on February 25, 2007, 05:16:17 pm
I'm using a 1991 Nissan primera, that i only paid £100 for.
So far I've replaced the radiator, alternator belt, power sterring belt, one of the CV joints, and all the brakes... and I've had it a year. It's got just over 80,000 miles on the clock.

I've had to do a fair bit of work, but then for what i paid, it's great... sadly, my shock absorber and the spring on the passenger side went this week, and I have to wait until tomorrow to price the parts.... And I'm on the lower end of my student loans for this semester..... And trying to write my dissertation...

It had to go wrong at the exact time i needed to be on the road!!!

Cars, I love them, but they just love to give you grief at the wrong time.

The belts, brakes, shocks, and even the CV joints are wear and tear parts. So I would say you got one heck of a deal there.

Sadly the problem with my shocks was related to teh bushes, and the strut arm.... and I found a large weld job on a stress point just behind the shock....
As i'm a poor uni student... at least until June, I can't afford to fix the problems, while also having to pay the UK governments stupid road tax prices etc... so I have to sell my Nissan for spare parts, or send her off to be scrapped... very sad. At it means i'm without transport for a month, starting at the end of March.

I'll be sorry to see the car go, it was my first one I ever owned..... oh well.

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Topic: Car Problem (Read 5638 times) var addthis_config = {"data_track_clickback":true};

Topic: Car Problem (Read 5638 times)