Topic: How often do you get your car's or truck's oil changed? (Read 10693 times)

Jack Morris · « **on:** February 17, 2006, 07:58:16 am »

Mobil 1 has a fully synthetic motor oil that lasts 15,000 miles! Of course if you have an oil change light, you'll have to learn how to reset it so it thinks the oil has been changed. But let's break things down over the long run.

Goodyear charges 24.99 plus oil disposal fee and state taxes for a regular oil change, then they recommmend 3k intervals. That's a lot of money over a 15k period.

Leda's 03 Toyota Camry recommends regular oil at 7k intervals, but I would not trust that with regular motor oil. She uses synthetic at 7k intervals, still saving but not as much as the 15k stuff.

Vicky's Honda civic has a sensor for 3k intervals, but I know how to override it. At 7k intervals I change the filter, but do not change the oil until 15k. Anybody can change a filter at home, just make sure you have a drip pan as a small amount of oil is still in the filter.

Do the math, it pays to spend a lil bit more for a performance synthetic and filters instead of doing the full filter and oil changes at 3k or 7k intervals.

Hey, a dollar saved is a dollar saved, it all adds up in the long run.

J. Carney · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:51:14 am »

Still use conventional Castrol 10W-30, and change roughly every 5000 miles. DOn't pay anyone to do it, being as my Dad lives in the woods, we simply change ourselves and save the old motor oil for varrious uses (makes a darn good waterproofer/anti-termite treatment for stuff like treestands).

I pay about about $18 an oil change.

The Postman · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2006, 05:02:47 pm »

I have 2 Dodge pickups that have 12k change intervals. I usually do it at 10k or once a year whichever comes 1st.

Just plain old Punisher · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2006, 06:32:44 pm »

When the bearings in the engine finnally grind to a screaching halt.

Grand Master of Shadows NCC37385 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:27:13 pm »

I change oil, plugs, filters (all of 'em), every 3000 miles or so. 154,000 miles later and Ive never had so much as a knock in the motor. Never had to replace any major parts.

Capt. Mike · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:33:09 pm »

When the oil light flickers as I sharply turn a corner....

Seriously...every 3-4 months as long as the weather's good....tomorrow will be -10 F...won't be changing any oil..enticing squirrels with peanuts so my granddaughter's entertained as she watches through the windows..I'll do that...

Mike

E_Look · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2006, 09:53:36 pm »

Car's still not too old yet, so it's still roughly 3000 miles and I get the oil changed.

I did that with a previous car and it, in other hands, is still running after close to 200k miles.

I neglected frequent and regular oil changes with an even earlier car and it went kaput after around five or so years.

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2006, 08:51:32 pm »

I use Mobil One. I can go 20,000 miles between oil changes.

<Say, what's that noise?>

E_Look · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2006, 10:43:39 pm »

Must be the warp injector coils pulsing out of sync with harmonics of the field stabilization matrix generator. I recommend you get genuine Spican flame oil with 6.75% deuterium enrichment (sounds like the stuff in some Northern Chinese or Mexican cooking... ) and lube the flux initiation damper blocks.

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2006, 05:47:58 am »

Every three months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first. With a six mile commute I rarely even get close to 3,000 miles, I figure the body will fall off before the engine is ready to pack it in.

Father Ted · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:46:44 am »

Quote from: Jack Morris on February 17, 2006, 07:58:16 am

Mobil 1 has a fully synthetic motor oil that lasts 15,000 miles! Of course if you have an oil change light, you'll have to learn how to reset it so it thinks the oil has been changed. But let's break things down over the long run.

Goodyear charges 24.99 plus oil disposal fee and state taxes for a regular oil change, then they recommmend 3k intervals. That's a lot of money over a 15k period.

Leda's 03 Toyota Camry recommends regular oil at 7k intervals, but I would not trust that with regular motor oil. She uses synthetic at 7k intervals, still saving but not as much as the 15k stuff.

Vicky's Honda civic has a sensor for 3k intervals, but I know how to override it. At 7k intervals I change the filter, but do not change the oil until 15k. Anybody can change a filter at home, just make sure you have a drip pan as a small amount of oil is still in the filter.

Do the math, it pays to spend a lil bit more for a performance synthetic and filters instead of doing the full filter and oil changes at 3k or 7k intervals.

Hey, a dollar saved is a dollar saved, it all adds up in the long run.

Um, is this one of those 'if train A leaves the station at 7:45 travelling west at 45 miles an hour, and train B leaves a seperate station at 8:02 heading east at 52 miles an hour, when will they collide?' questions?

Jack Morris · « **Reply #11 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:51:21 am »

I would need to know the distance from station A to station B, right? I know, I suck at math, that was and is my weakest subject in education.

Dracho · « **Reply #12 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:54:22 am »

Don't let anyone tell you that you can let your car go 15,000 miles without an oil change. Yes, the oil will retain its properties that long, but pollutants WILL get into the oil, the filter won't last that long, and you'll be increasing the wear on your engine.

If you drive nothing but freeway miles (and I don't mean California, bumper-to-bumper freeway), you can go 7500, but I don't recommend it. 3 months or 3,000 miles will double the life of your engine.

FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC · « **Reply #13 on:** February 24, 2006, 08:10:34 am »

Never,the cars i use got a special oil filter.This filter nearly voids the need to make oil changes within a motor liftime.
http://www.trabold.de/
I know its in German but there is a nice picture of it on the front page.

E_Look · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2006, 11:45:05 am »

Kehakoul, I'm sure the filter is great for trapping all metal particulates and even other particulates from your oil.

But the reason to change oil is not just the solid gritty junk in it. Given today's engines, the oil is more harshly treated than in the past and it chemically breaks down. So, it no longer lubricates nearly as well as when the oil was newer.

I suppose you won't have to change the filter ever, but the oil has to be periodically.

The Postman · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2006, 04:52:34 pm »

I forgot to mention that after I change the oil, I dump it right back into the fuel tank.

Jack Morris · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:20:06 pm »

I think you might want to brush up on your German, like E-look said, and any auto parts or auto tech people can tell you, oil has chemicals added that do break down, that is why we try to recycle oil, because it can be filtered and separated and then have new chemicals added.

The filter is permanent from what they are saying, not the oil. That doohickey can cool oil all it wants, it doesn't matter in the combustion chamber where the pistons are going warp speed and there is a LOT of heat in that mo-fo.

Usual oil change against Trabold Oelfeinstfiltersystem (10er) usual oil change price for 1 l oil (5W-40): €Preis for standard filters: €Oelinhalt the engine: litre oil change interval for normal oil change: kmStundenlohn for oil changes: more €Zeitdauer for normal oil change: min TRABOLD OelfeinstfiltersystemEinmalige micro-filter acquisition: €Erstmontage: €Preis for micro-filter cartridge: €Wechselintervall the micro-filter cartridge: kmStundenlohn for micro-filter changes: more €Zeitdauer for micro-filter changes min for km the acquisition of the high speed filter is one of the most interesting investments. The filter has one a life long. It lands not on the scrap iron, but from vehicle to vehicle again and again converted after the 5ten no longer made oil change that the Trabold high speed filter already amortized.

Also, where is their guarantee IF the engine does seize up due to oil breakdown beyond the manufacturer's specs or an oil company's specs? At least I have a receipt for Mobil 1 sythetic 15,000 mile oil and a filter, and will document the changing of the filter too. They have a clearly printed guarantee. That German doohickey does not, so am I to trust what could be auto parts "snake oil?"

T' Kang · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:00:34 pm »

We are using Mobil Synthetic (Mobil 1) in both cars and the piston-plane (AV1). They follow the same oil change schedule. Oil is replaced every 200hrs. The oil filter(s) are replaced every 100 hours. The hourmeter is the first accessory mounted in the car(s). The engine oil only cares about operational hours. The engine can be running for 200hrs and the car travel 15000 miles, or the car might not move anywhere at all. On my commercial van ('64 International 598k mi); it has the filter replaced every 50 hours due to blow by. Oil is tested every time the filter is changed (http://www.avlab.com/analysis/login/default.asp).

The commercial oil filter listed can work, but without test results..? I wonder why you do not see this type of system used on commercial vehicles?

Jack Morris · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:10:50 pm »

Or being in high demand for that matter, at least K&N gives guaranteed results on their products.

FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2006, 01:50:30 am »

Quote from: E_Look NCC-9091 on February 24, 2006, 11:45:05 am

Kehakoul, I'm sure the filter is great for trapping all metal particulates and even other particulates from your oil.

But the reason to change oil is not just the solid gritty junk in it. Given today's engines, the oil is more harshly treated than in the past and it chemically breaks down. So, it no longer lubricates nearly as well as when the oil was newer.

I suppose you won't have to change the filter ever, but the oil has to be periodically.

No lectures needed,Elook, its exactly the other way arround,..you got to change the filter after a few years.
With a modern motor oil the need to change it is virtually wiped out.

Second this is actually a oil filter/ cooler unit and more its connected to the motor and gear,you use two ,one for the gear the other for the motor.
Its a German inventon that faced harsh opposition from the Auto industry over here in Germany and most important from the oil industry etc.. guess why??

Fact is its is fielded at the moment in many German towns for public service cars to anihilate the need to feed the oil scammers further.
And it works as i said, regardless what you guys might think!:)

Have a nice day.

FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2006, 02:07:08 am »

What a bunch of smartasses hehe;)

Here once again.

They will pay the damage via insurance.. Jack.

That tech is for more then 20 years in production and development even longer,.. it was on the world expo.
It will not damage your motor.
its is however against the interist of certain companys,.. they dont advertise it or put it in industrial production because its not their invention, instead they are trying to develop their own system.. but they lag arround 40ty!! years in development time.
You guys craking me up.
Its fact!!,.. ok, face it.
You all spill tons of money down the toilett.

And btw Jack that translation was not understandable from my pov, i seldom laughed that hard but when i saw that translation. hehe fun.

The Postman · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2006, 06:40:43 am »

Quote from: FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC on February 25, 2006, 02:07:08 am

What a bunch of smartasses hehe;)

Here once again.

They will pay the damage via insurance.. Jack.

That tech is for more then 20 years in production and development even longer,.. it was on the world expo.
It will not damage your motor.
its is however against the interist of certain companys,.. they dont advertise it or put it in industrial production because its not their invention, instead they are trying to develop their own system.. but they lag arround 40ty!! years in development time.
You guys craking me up.
Its fact!!,.. ok, face it.
You all spill tons of money down the toilett.

And btw Jack that translation was not understandable from my pov, i seldom laughed that hard but when i saw that translation. hehe fun.

To go along, with this here in this country there are class 8 trucks that go 500,000 miles or longer between changes. They use synthetic oil. At up to $15,000 a motor, they don't make this choice casually. What they do however is have the oil tested at a lab and change the filters every 50,000 miles.

Jack Morris · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2006, 08:38:42 am »

That tech is for more then 20 years in production and development even longer,.. it was on the world expo.
It will not damage your motor.
its is however against the interist of certain companys,.. they dont advertise it or put it in industrial production because its not their invention, instead they are trying to develop their own system.. but they lag arround 40ty!! years in development time.

******************************************************************************************************

http://www.puradyn.com/

There went that 40 year research & development and production estimate.

If this proves useful and is certified by the D.O.E., and is cost effective for a average American driver, I might be inclined to consider buying a gadget like that. Until then, it's best left to others to play the guinea pig.

T' Kang · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2006, 12:46:09 pm »

The No. 1 question of oil experts: How often should oil be changed?
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/editorial/articledetail.lasso?-token.key=10409&-token.src=column&-nothing

Explaining to the insurance agent how you know more than the engine/chemical engineering team at the factory; futile.

Oil is ¢heap, engine is expen$$ive. Driving around in the rental Taurus while the Mercedes is in the shop; Priceless.

Now if the cost of the oil change is more than the replacement of the '70 Pinto?

Just to stir the pot a little...
http://www.ichoosegreen.com/custom.em?pid=287360

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #24 on:** February 25, 2006, 09:36:47 pm »

Quote from: T' Kang on February 25, 2006, 12:46:09 pm

Now if the cost of the oil change is more than the replacement of the '70 Pinto?

The cost of a quart of oil is more than that!

E_Look · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2006, 09:45:57 pm »

Okay, no lectures.

How about you providing a demonstration... well, instead of that, how about some figures or data and maybe a picture or charts?

I mean, if I can save money by changing oil only once every 15,000 mi (or km; either way, that's a lot of driving distance!), I'm for it!

Really, all joking and playing aside, you will be doing a public service if you can post some solid, reputable data here.

Quote from: FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC on February 25, 2006, 01:50:30 am

Quote from: E_Look NCC-9091 on February 24, 2006, 11:45:05 am
Kehakoul, I'm sure the filter is great for trapping all metal particulates and even other particulates from your oil.

But the reason to change oil is not just the solid gritty junk in it. Given today's engines, the oil is more harshly treated than in the past and it chemically breaks down. So, it no longer lubricates nearly as well as when the oil was newer.

I suppose you won't have to change the filter ever, but the oil has to be periodically.

No lectures needed,Elook, its exactly the other way arround,..you got to change the filter after a few years.
With a modern motor oil the need to change it is virtually wiped out.

Second this is actually a oil filter/ cooler unit and more its connected to the motor and gear,you use two ,one for the gear the other for the motor.
Its a German inventon that faced harsh opposition from the Auto industry over here in Germany and most important from the oil industry etc.. guess why??

Fact is its is fielded at the moment in many German towns for public service cars to anihilate the need to feed the oil scammers further.
And it works as i said, regardless what you guys might think!:)

Have a nice day.

Jack Morris · « **Reply #26 on:** February 26, 2006, 08:38:22 am »

I mean, if I can save money by changing oil only once every 15,000 mi (or km; either way, that's a lot of driving distance!), I'm for it!

*********************************************************************************************************

Mobil One already has a 15,000 mile full synthetic oil, the two gadgets mentioned are supposed to go way beyond that.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance.aspx

Notice key words: You've never seen an oil like this before. Mobil 1® Extended Performance is a new high-endurance motor oil with 36 percent more anti-wear additives and 37 percent more cleaning agents than current Mobil 1 formulations. It is a fully synthetic formulation that helps extend engine life, reduce oil breakdown and minimize engine wear -- all while helping to keep your engine clean. Improvements that add up to exceptional protection for 15,000 miles. Guaranteed.

GUARANTEED, I love it!

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 26, 2006, 11:28:33 am »

You mean to tell me "changing" the oil doesn't mean putting the oil from the Dodge into the Olds and from the Olds to the Dodge?

Man, this place is great!

E_Look · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2006, 03:42:05 pm »

Quote from: Jack Morris on February 26, 2006, 08:38:22 am

I mean, if I can save money by changing oil only once every 15,000 mi (or km; either way, that's a lot of driving distance!), I'm for it!

*********************************************************************************************************

Mobil One already has a 15,000 mile full synthetic oil, the two gadgets mentioned are supposed to go way beyond that.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance.aspx

Notice key words: You've never seen an oil like this before. Mobil 1® Extended Performance is a new high-endurance motor oil with 36 percent more anti-wear additives and 37 percent more cleaning agents than current Mobil 1 formulations. It is a fully synthetic formulation that helps extend engine life, reduce oil breakdown and minimize engine wear -- all while helping to keep your engine clean. Improvements that add up to exceptional protection for 15,000 miles. Guaranteed.

GUARANTEED, I love it!

I don't know Jack, Kehahoul, etc. It kind of sounds too good to be true!

FRA.E.Kehakoul_XC · « **Reply #29 on:** February 26, 2006, 10:49:04 pm »

I know E_look:). Even when i write it down i realize how unbelievable it is, and i woulndt have even bothered to post it here, if i wouldnt know several people who use it now for years,.. and had talked to the guy who makes them.
But we were blinded by the Auto companys for decades now.
Everyhwere you talk to people its the same even over here, or maybe especially over here, you know the Germans are heavy into cars.. and are brand freaks,its simply not thinkable for them that Mercedes,Porsche ,Bmw ,Vw etc would ignore a feature that would spare them thousands of money just to support the oil industry,or support the spread of diesel cars,.. oil driven,.. without particle filters although they know that the exhaust is highly cancerogen. if you got a basic grasp on chemistry you that, yet they kill people just to make money.

That filter is easyly useable with that new oil or additives , the combo should be even better.

And one more thing about Germany, public services dont easyly make themselves dependant on services.
Believe me when i say that in that in PB services they never would field them if there were any rumors of them ,not working or producing breakdowns.
Btw as said, the company offers insurance in regard to any damage caused. But they never had to compensate anyone yet.
The rest is all a publicity problem.
I will look, if i find the time, and see what i can translate of that site ,in a understandable form.

Brush Wolf · « **Reply #30 on:** February 27, 2006, 12:38:35 am »

Kehahoul, while that filter system probably does work very well I think the payback period for most drivers makes traditional oil filters just as good and likely cheaper. For myself the same can be said about that Mobil One synthetic, when you only drive five to six thousand miles a year there is little or no cost savings over more conventional oils.

Dracho · « **Reply #31 on:** February 27, 2006, 10:50:59 am »

I take the Germans seriously when it comes to engineering. Any people that can make oil & petrol from potatos, and fuel enough tanks and planes to fight a war must have something on the ball.

KBF MalaK · « **Reply #32 on:** February 28, 2006, 09:58:09 am »

Oil is the life blood of your engine. 3000 miles is a pretty good interval for conventional oil as it's mostly parrafin wax that does lose it's lubricating properties, and does have a shelf life. When it's exposed to air it starts to deteriorate and even if the motor isn't run the oil is 'spoiled' after about 3 months. Synthetics are a different animal, it doesn't 'go bad' over a short amount of time. Synth blends are a cheap intermediate solution- it 'goes bad' over time but has better lubricating qualities than conventional oil, but not as good as a full synth oil. Oil changing is cheap insurance against costly bearing and ring replacments, not to mention valve guides, clogged oil pump pick-up tubes/oil galleys, and other moving parts.

Rule of thumb:
conventional oil- 3 months or 3000 miles
blends- 4 months or 4500 miles
full synth- 6 months or 10,000 miles

*** note*** - I was a Mercedes Benz mechanic for 15 years

Commander Maxillius · « **Reply #33 on:** February 28, 2006, 03:12:43 pm »

2005 Toyota Echo 1.5L 4-cyl

I use Valvoline SYNPower 5W30 in my engine and change it (religiously) every 3500-4300 miles. I've been known to let the filter go 2 cycles though.

Case of oil: $28 (6 quarts, engine takes 3.

filter: $6

Pretty much every 3rd change is free since there are 2 unused bottles from every change. And I do it myself. Anyone know where I could dump off about 100 gallons of used engine oil? (mixed grades, but mostly straight-30, but some 5W30 conventional, and some 3W30 synthetic)

The Postman · « **Reply #34 on:** February 28, 2006, 07:56:29 pm »

Quote

Pretty much every 3rd change is free since there are 2 unused bottles from every change. And I do it myself. Anyone know where I could dump off about 100 gallons of used engine oil? (mixed grades, but mostly straight-30, but some 5W30 conventional, and some 3W30 synthetic)

I would take it but MI is too far. If it is good clean (used) crank case oil with no water, somebody with a big truck might take it and blend it off with his diesel. I my self dump up to 10 gallions everytime I fill up. Like I stated above, my oil changes go straight into my fuel tank.

Dracho · « **Reply #35 on:** February 28, 2006, 09:08:25 pm »

Quote from: Maxillius NCC-13443 on February 28, 2006, 03:12:43 pm

2005 Toyota Echo 1.5L 4-cyl

I use Valvoline SYNPower 5W30 in my engine and change it (religiously) every 3500-4300 miles. I've been known to let the filter go 2 cycles though.

Case of oil: $28 (6 quarts, engine takes 3.
filter: $6

Pretty much every 3rd change is free since there are 2 unused bottles from every change. And I do it myself. Anyone know where I could dump off about 100 gallons of used engine oil? (mixed grades, but mostly straight-30, but some 5W30 conventional, and some 3W30 synthetic)

Call businesses (like lube shops) until you find one that uses a burnt-oil heater to provide heat. They'll usually take it right off your hands.

Jack Morris · « **Reply #36 on:** March 01, 2006, 07:06:24 am »

Advance Auto Parts take oil as well. Like brother D said, most lube shops will take it, everyplace for free. People might not know this, but next time you get an oil change, look at your receipt for an "oil disposal fee." It's B.S., wanna know why? They get paid money when the truck comes and sucks all the used oil out of the big tanks, because the companies that pick it up and pay the lube shops turn around and recycle it and make it useful for many applications, one that I'm sure of as I did my research when I invested in maritime oil tankers is that they can run ships off the stuff.

Next time, do it yourself and save that 4-5 buck oil disposal fee.

EE · « **Reply #37 on:** March 05, 2006, 02:33:43 pm »

I use Mobill 1 full synthetic oil and I change every 3,000 miles regardless of color or smell. I do so because I have no choice, I must keep my engine in tip top shape, I cant risk replacing it or the turbo on it. At $5.99 a quart and 5 quarts of oil plus $10 for a filter, its expensive to do changes on my car even doing them by myself.

As is, my transmission is dumping fluid like crazy and now requires at the minimum, new seals and at the most, a rebuild ( have nto dropped it yet ). Just when I was starting to get comfortable and safe with the new job crap gets screwed up. Truck is dead, voltage regulator went out and it gets crappy mileage and now the car is bleeding and I cant stop it. Its costing me $12 a day in transmission fluid to keep it operational and thats driving it 6 miles round trip from home to work and back home. I am dropping the transmission next friday to see whats up and how all the seals and gaskets are doing.

My car, 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

My work truck that doesnt like to work at all, 1985 Mitsubishi Mighty Max SP

My car left, my friends 11 second, 501 awhp Eagle Talon

My baby bleeding all over the driveway

Midnight Tech · « **Reply #38 on:** March 05, 2006, 02:57:14 pm »

EE, have you had the filter changed in that tranny lately? It could be that the pan bolts weren't tightened properly. I usually don't tell folks to add stuff to their cars, but if it'll help with that leaking a bit, you might want to add a bottle of ATP's AT-205 Re-Seal(tm). The parts store I work at sells a lot of that stuff and it does work.

EE · « **Reply #39 on:** March 05, 2006, 09:58:30 pm »

Quote from: Midnight Tech on March 05, 2006, 02:57:14 pm

EE, have you had the filter changed in that tranny lately? It could be that the pan bolts weren't tightened properly. I usually don't tell folks to add stuff to their cars, but if it'll help with that leaking a bit, you might want to add a bottle of ATP's AT-205 Re-Seal(tm). The parts store I work at sells a lot of that stuff and it does work.

The filter was changed before I purchased the car. When I purchased it, it had just gotten all the belts done, new pan gasket and filter, new balance shaft and belt, everything tuned up. I have had the car 8 months ( still owe 58 more payments on it ) and it has 12,000 miles in 8 months. The filter should not need replacement for another 18,000 miles or so. The pan bolts, well 3 of them were loose and I tightended those but thats not the problem. I cleaned the bottom of the transmission/Transfer case and its coming from between the bellhousing and the engine, classic sign that the input shaft seal or pump seal is blown. I am dropping the transmission next friday to replace all the seals and to make sure I dont need a rebuild.

KBF MalaK · « **Reply #40 on:** March 06, 2006, 09:06:24 am »

Quote from: EE on March 05, 2006, 09:58:30 pm

Quote from: Midnight Tech on March 05, 2006, 02:57:14 pm
EE, have you had the filter changed in that tranny lately? It could be that the pan bolts weren't tightened properly. I usually don't tell folks to add stuff to their cars, but if it'll help with that leaking a bit, you might want to add a bottle of ATP's AT-205 Re-Seal(tm). The parts store I work at sells a lot of that stuff and it does work.

The filter was changed before I purchased the car. When I purchased it, it had just gotten all the belts done, new pan gasket and filter, new balance shaft and belt, everything tuned up. I have had the car 8 months ( still owe 58 more payments on it ) and it has 12,000 miles in 8 months. The filter should not need replacement for another 18,000 miles or so. The pan bolts, well 3 of them were loose and I tightended those but thats not the problem. I cleaned the bottom of the transmission/Transfer case and its coming from between the bellhousing and the engine, classic sign that the input shaft seal or pump seal is blown. I am dropping the transmission next friday to replace all the seals and to make sure I dont need a rebuild.

The balance shaft is a classic problem with bishi engines. I lost count of how many of those engines I've scrapped because of trashed balance shaft bearings, but I discovered a fix (cut the shaft behind the pulley and toss it, then remount the pulley and the cut off part) The engine shakes a little bit more but it's alot more reliable. And when you drop the tranny make sure your flywheel isn't warped- if it wobbles just a tiny bit it'll make the torque converter shake and destroy the seal, and pump bearing.

Death_Merchant · « **Reply #41 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:37:50 am »

With today's modern engines, you should change oil as often as you can afford to. Stopping at "Jiffy Lube" everyday on the way home would be ideal.

Oil performs a vital function in the engine, technically referred to as slipperyification. Also, fresh oil helps produce "new car smell", which the chicks really dig.

Buy the best oil possible: I started with 10W-30 when I was in school, but can now afford 10W-40! I'm still looking for 10W-100, but I think it's only available by mail-order or from snooty BMW dealerships.....

Jack Morris · « **Reply #42 on:** March 11, 2006, 01:22:45 am »

Long time no see DM! Fully synthetic my man!

Jack Morris · « **Reply #43 on:** March 11, 2006, 01:23:41 am »

As far as the new car smell? Once you do the wild thing in your new car, it's all over, chicks pick up on that.

Sirgod · « **Reply #44 on:** March 14, 2006, 09:23:12 am »

Hey what do you guys know about a Cummins Diesel engine? I'm going to have to buy a Pick up some time this month or next, and I heard they where one of the best for Hauling stuff. All I know is that Dodge and possibly Ford makes one.

Yes, If there where a Environmentaly better alternative I would use it, But I need the towing and HP that only a Gas/Diesel can give me guys.

Stephen

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 14, 2006, 09:43:36 am »

My brother-in law is a Ford master mechanic........ and he'd tell you you'd be nuts to buy a Ford.

Even he is impressed by the Dodge.

Fed

E_Look · « **Reply #46 on:** March 14, 2006, 10:40:51 am »

What does he think of GMs?

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 14, 2006, 10:44:45 am »

Quote from: E_Look NCC-9091 on March 14, 2006, 10:40:51 am

What does he think of GMs?

He likes them as well....... it's the Fords that are his bane.

They are over engineered.

And being the "A" master mechanic he gets more than his share of trucks.

Sirgod · « **Reply #48 on:** March 14, 2006, 02:06:44 pm »

Thanks for that Info. Fedman. I know I always used to like Driving Fords more so then GM, But when It's cold, Fords to me at least seem harder to start then anyother car/truck out there.

Stephen

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #49 on:** March 14, 2006, 02:26:50 pm »

Quote from: Stephen NCC -73070 on March 14, 2006, 02:06:44 pm

Thanks for that Info. Fedman. I know I always used to like Driving Fords more so then GM, But when It's cold, Fords to me at least seem harder to start then anyother car/truck out there.

Stephen

Well, if you want me to ask him, maybe I can get some more info on the truck your looking at and get back to you.

Sirgod · « **Reply #50 on:** March 14, 2006, 02:45:34 pm »

Quote from: Fedman NCC-3758 on March 14, 2006, 02:26:50 pm

Quote from: Stephen NCC -73070 on March 14, 2006, 02:06:44 pm
Thanks for that Info. Fedman. I know I always used to like Driving Fords more so then GM, But when It's cold, Fords to me at least seem harder to start then anyother car/truck out there.

Stephen

Well, if you want me to ask him, maybe I can get some more info on the truck your looking at and get back to you.

LOL, that's just the problem, I know I'll buy used but I have no idea what to look for. I should have bought that Duece in half by now, But the man who was looking into It had a stroke at work just shy of a year ago. So now I'm looking at HP vs. torque, Hauling vs. Highway, etc. Actually, If he has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. I'm trying to stay Between 10-20 K though used.

Stephen

Fedman NCC-3758 · « **Reply #51 on:** March 14, 2006, 03:01:51 pm »

Quote from: Stephen NCC -73070 on March 14, 2006, 02:45:34 pm

Quote from: Fedman NCC-3758 on March 14, 2006, 02:26:50 pm
Quote from: Stephen NCC -73070 on March 14, 2006, 02:06:44 pm
Thanks for that Info. Fedman. I know I always used to like Driving Fords more so then GM, But when It's cold, Fords to me at least seem harder to start then anyother car/truck out there.

Stephen

Well, if you want me to ask him, maybe I can get some more info on the truck your looking at and get back to you.

LOL, that's just the problem, I know I'll buy used but I have no idea what to look for. I should have bought that Duece in half by now, But the man who was looking into It had a stroke at work just shy of a year ago. So now I'm looking at HP vs. torque, Hauling vs. Highway, etc. Actually, If he has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. I'm trying to stay Between 10-20 K though used.

Stephen

OK, gotcha.

From what he's told me lately alot of the super duty 350's are coming back with all kinds of crazy things. The Ford techs are spending more time online with Ford trying to keep up with the egineers who are constinately changing things.

Oh, and if you see one with a power moon roof? Run.

Jack Morris · « **Reply #52 on:** March 14, 2006, 07:32:01 pm »

Yota ho, 7k, but I got Mobil One, 15k baby! Guaranteed! Yota ho can't say sh*te!

The Postman · « **Reply #53 on:** March 14, 2006, 09:57:15 pm »

Quote

Hey what do you guys know about a Cummins Diesel engine?

I own 3 of them, what would you like to know? Mileage?16-23. torque? My(RED) 98 12 valve has 700 ft-lbs and just under 400 ponies. that is the one I will feed just about anything including crankcase oil, jet fuel, and vegetable oil. It will pull anything and I routinely put 15K lbs trailers behind it. Did I mention it actually has a Jake installed as well with a 5 speed and a 140 gallions of fuel onboard. This truck is NOT stock.

My wife drives a (WHITE)2000 24 valve ISB engine. It only has 500ft-lbs/300hp in front of the 4spd auto. she gets about 18 around town and 23 on trips. It has a 4"straight pipe and an oversized turbo. All you can hear is is turbo whistle at idle. She loves it. This truck is not stock either

My 1st was a (BLUE)90 which is old reliable. It only has 400ft-lbs and 160 hp. It has a 3 spd auto and 3.07 gears with a redline of 2200. Pedal in the floor Is only 67mph. However it gets 20 around town and 22 on trips. One time I went up to Washington County New York for the Tractor pulls pulling my Farmall Super MD (weight 9500) on my 6 ton tag trailer with a full load of fuel, tools, people and extra weights in the truck (GCVW ~19,000) and I STILL got 17 MPG for the trip, Eventually this truck will rot away as they all do in the rust belt and this moter will go into My B42T Mack in front of a 10spd. This truck is stock. The photo below shows this truck about to taken to the diesel shop for the one time it actually stopped running. With 200k on it, the injection pump actually failed.

All three of these will cold start without plugging in routinely below 0 F . with the red one, I don't even need to wait for the grid heater (no glow plugs, heats intake air ). All B cummins are direct injection which gives more power, mileage and easier starting.

Sirgod · « **Reply #54 on:** March 15, 2006, 04:22:10 am »

LOL Postman, I'm begining to think there's nothing that you don't know. That pic with Red pulling Blue is hillarious.

From what I've managed to read about a cummins, It's the Torque that is offered that really allows for hauling. For an example, I have a friend, Bill, who is thinking about selling his Back Hoe buisness, and If I buy It, I'll need something to haul around this Multi Ton Back hoe. From what I hear , a Cummins is about the only engine that will do this.

as far as other Hauling, Once A month I;
Get some extra hay / Alfalfa.
Go to the City about 60 miles round trip.
Buy construction materials Lumber, Fencing, etc.
Take young Calves to market ( although I haven't in a while because the Drought has dropped Cattle prices.)
Etc.

Thanks again guys for the Info.

Stephen

Jack Morris · « **Reply #55 on:** March 15, 2006, 02:56:29 pm »

Quote from: The Postman on March 14, 2006, 09:57:15 pm

Quote
Hey what do you guys know about a Cummins Diesel engine?

I own 3 of them, what would you like to know? Mileage?16-23. torque? My(RED) 98 12 valve has 700 ft-lbs and just under 400 ponies. that is the one I will feed just about anything including crankcase oil, jet fuel, and vegetable oil. It will pull anything and I routinely put 15K lbs trailers behind it. Did I mention it actually has a Jake installed as well with a 5 speed and a 140 gallions of fuel onboard. This truck is NOT stock.

My wife drives a (WHITE)2000 24 valve ISB engine. It only has 500ft-lbs/300hp in front of the 4spd auto. she gets about 18 around town and 23 on trips. It has a 4"straight pipe and an oversized turbo. All you can hear is is turbo whistle at idle. She loves it. This truck is not stock either

My 1st was a (BLUE)90 which is old reliable. It only has 400ft-lbs and 160 hp. It has a 3 spd auto and 3.07 gears with a redline of 2200. Pedal in the floor Is only 67mph. However it gets 20 around town and 22 on trips. One time I went up to Washington County New York for the Tractor pulls pulling my Farmall Super MD (weight 9500) on my 6 ton tag trailer with a full load of fuel, tools, people and extra weights in the truck (GCVW ~19,000) and I STILL got 17 MPG for the trip, Eventually this truck will rot away as they all do in the rust belt and this moter will go into My B42T Mack in front of a 10spd. This truck is stock. The photo below shows this truck about to taken to the diesel shop for the one time it actually stopped running. With 200k on it, the injection pump actually failed.

All three of these will cold start without plugging in routinely below 0 F . with the red one, I don't even need to wait for the grid heater (no glow plugs, heats intake air ). All B cummins are direct injection which gives more power, mileage and easier starting.

refiners love you baby! j/k

The Postman · « **Reply #56 on:** March 15, 2006, 04:23:19 pm »

Quote

refiners love you baby!

Why? Very little of what I burn in the red one do I actully buy, I get used crank case oil, dicarded jet fuel, used vegitable oil(up to 10%/tank) and what ever else i can find. My MPG for this truck based on what I actually buy is probably upwards of 50MPG. Reality is that I still get 16-22 per actual gallon. It all depends on how much I stick my foot in it. I love to feel that 50PSI of turbo boost. It is a real shot in the a$$.

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